Amol Rajan reviews

Sunday, October 16, 2011 - The Taste of the Market menu is a series of what my wonderful colleague Lisa Markwell calls 'flashes of intrigue'. It starts with a pea foam and succulent, crunchy prawns atop a tomato jelly. The colours are dazzling, and the flavours are strong and earthy. Salmon rillettes follow, with pickled vegetables, lime and wasabi...At more than 140 pounds for food, drink and (excellent) service, this is a meal for a very special occasion. Yet it is an almost faultless parade of beautifully crafted plates, enticingly sequenced and flashing not just intrigue, but ultimately delight, too.

Sunday, February 27, 2011 - My pork presse, made from cheek meat, comes with an excellent sweet-and-sour glaze and immaculately tangy spring onions. The main courses are much flatter, however. My braised blade of beef comes with an excellent onion marmalade and serviceable potato puree and kale, but is too dry. And sat on the plate are mini boiled carrots, cooked in such a way as to have drained flavour from them rather than intensified it...Two exquisite desserts begin a welcome recovery. A rhubarb parfait with sorbet is fabulously refreshing and bold, but the highlight of the day is Keerti's olive-oil panna cotta.